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"Don’t think I won’t hold you to that," he says

We work on getting him balanced on his stoood-naturedly, and we talka wave I quiz him on which direction they’ll break I teach hih the sh he never actually looks any less tense, he listens and does everything I ask

"As the wave co it Arht, hands on the rails, deep breath before the wave breaks over you--"

"Why do I need to take a deep breath?" he asks, eyes wide and panicked

"Because you’re going to be underwater"

"Under?"

"You’ll be fine," I tell hioose bu this right now, but I can’t look away fro to it and the way his nipples are pert and hard I want to flick thereat nipples

"Will you hold my hand on Goliath?" he asks, and I have to blink back to what he’s saying

"What?"

"I think you heard , "My eyes are up here, by the way"

I snap h "Fine Yes, I’ll hold your hand on Goliath"

"Okay, good I can do this," he says, and takes one last look into the water "Show "

"Duck-dive"

"Whatever All I care about is surviving I’"

I shake my head and reach for the nose of his board "So your board is under, you take a deep breath, and the wave goes over You’ll pop right back up and be ready to keep paddling It takes soet it right And you don’t have to go deep Just enough to get under the wave Deeper isn’t always better"

He snorts "If that’s true then you wouldn’t have--"

I slide , and we both look up at the saht

A huge set co out "See how he’s going right through those?" I point to the smaller swells "When you paddle out you want full steaer than you and if you’re not working to h it it’ll knock you on your ass Watch how he pops, look at his stance"

As atch the other surfer, Luke eventually lets out a "Man, he’s good," clearly iood," I tell hireat swimmer It’s all technique and practice You’ll have the s waves?"

"I don’t think you’re ready for a big wave yet, Blue Crush"

"Very funny"

"Okay, I’ll do it and then it’s your turn Deal?" I ask